Making the Denim Collection

In the fall of 2023, I received an email from Boston University’s African Students’ Organization informing me that they were interested in having me showcase my designs in their upcoming 2024 cultural show. I was excited, I felt validated, and then I said, “Oh sh**! I don’t have the seamstress skills or time to pull this off. Yikes!” I had just started my PhD program and I was not about to start adding time-consuming hobbies to what was to become the busiest time of my life (so far). I did what any reasonable person would and emailed back stating that I was honored to be given this opportunity by my alma mater, I would love to do it, and therefore I would show up with 10 pieces on the day of. I figured it would all work out somehow. What’s the worst that could happen?

I had never done a show before let alone designed for someone other than myself. I decided to break down the problem into smaller chunks — as any computer scientist would. I decided to design with myself as the end customer. Easy! All I had to do was impress myself, and I had a pretty good estimate of how to do so. I spent September - October designing and revising the pieces. I took a break to work on my final exams (December) and then hopped on a flight to Kenya to see my family for the holidays.

Sourcing the Fabrics

I decided to create a full denim collection because denim reminds me of jeans, upcycling, thrifting, and mixing and matching shades and textures. I know — that’s a lot! To me, denim represents a whole lot of clothing possibilities. I sourced denim from thrift stores (jeans from Savers), fabric stores in America, and a few in Kenya. I upcycled the thrifted jeans to create a few tops, making sure to use the waistline with the crotch area which screams “Those are jeans!” In Nairobi, I sourced my fabrics from a few stalls at Nairobi Textiles. While I love shopping in Nairobi, because you can haggle your way to reasonable prices, I find it more difficult to verify the quality of the material. Does the color run? Does the fabric maintain the form after a few washes? Yes, I am biased when it comes to sourcing fabrics in Nairobi — I’ve been burned a few times.

Working with the Tailor (short horror story)

I decided to hire a familiar tailor who had cut some fabric patterns for me almost a year prior. He had an impressive portfolio and had done some custom pieces for my older brother so I figured, why not? Finding a tailor who understands and can actualize custom designs in Nairobi can be a nightmare! There have been horror stories about tailors stealing fabrics, tailors botching your fabric in an attempt to sew your design, or (most commonly) tailors constantly failing to meet the deadlines you both agreed on while placing the order. Like a self-fulfilling prophecy, there was the circus of trying to get my pieces from him for nearly 2 weeks! It was, “Come in 2 days” on repeat until my time in Kenya was up. Long story short, he did not finish my job on time and I flew to America with 20% of my collection. It cost me nearly double the price it took to make the collection to ship it to myself in batches (DHL from Nairobi to America is pretty expensive). I eventually got all my pieces (not as I had designed some of them, but I got them).

Capturing the Pieces

While I was in Nairobi, the tailor completed 3 dresses that I captured on the streets of Nairobi. I captured the pieces in front of a Kiosk (similar to a bodega), at a boda-boda (motorcycle) stage, and at Maasai Market in Karen. I worked with the team at ArtHaus Studios to create that street-style vibe in Nairobi. Because it wasn’t my first time shooting on the streets in Nairobi, I was oblivious to the stares from the public — I was really in my element. The photo with the motorcyclist in the shades was a classic because it was my second time involving him in my shoots; it’s safe to say he’s been integrated into the team. The photos from these shoots were stunning! I love how the African sun hits my skin and makes it glow. It was giving ‘Melanin Queen’ and I was here for ALL of it. These shoots remind me of the African fashion magazines I would read as a child e.g. True Love. The fashion spreads outside the studio captured the vibrance of African countries e.g. the fruit markets, the villages, the deserts, the waterfalls. That content continues to inspire my work today and I’m glad the team and I hit a home run with this shoot.

Hitting the Runway

I finally got to see my designs on the Runway on Valentine’s weekend this year. I had 10 models from Boston University’s ASO. I was a bit worried because a lot of models were missing from the dress fitting 2 weeks prior and I could only hope for the best. On the day of the event, I managed to get each of the 10 models assigned to me into one of the pieces and create a cohesive collection that I was proud of. I did it! I managed to create a collection that impressed me — amidst all the challenges, I was successful. I was on cloud 100 walking out on the runway to the cheering audience after my collection showed. It was such a full circle moment! I appreciate my family and friends for supporting me financially and emotionally through this journey. The first show was a success, the pieces were a success, and I look forward to participating in more shows. Onward!